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When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.